Backyard Chickens for Beginners (and Common Diseases)
Backyard chickens for beginners: choosing hens, coop and run size, feeding, daily routine, and common diseases to watch for, from mites to Newcastle disease.
Health guide
Not a substitute for a vet. If your animal is unwell, in pain or getting worse, contact a qualified veterinarian straight away.
Quick answer
Backyard chickens need a secure coop with a run, kept dry and well ventilated. Feed a complete layer ration with clean water, keep at least three birds, and stick to a daily routine of feeding, collecting eggs and checking everyone over. The problems you are most likely to meet are external parasites, worms, coccidiosis, respiratory infections and laying troubles. In many regions Newcastle disease and avian influenza are serious threats too. Vaccinate where advised, keep good biosecurity, and get any sick bird away from the flock fast.
Before you start
- Check local rules. Whether you can keep poultry at all, how many, and whether roosters are allowed depends on your country and town. Some places also make you register your flock.
- Plan for the long term. Hens can live many years, and they slow down on laying well before the end of their lives.
- Think about predators. Depending on where you live, that could mean foxes, dogs, cats, mongooses, snakes, rats or birds of prey.
- Find a vet who treats poultry before you need one.
Choosing your hens
Most beginners get on best with point-of-lay pullets (young hens about to start laying) from a reputable source. Day-old chicks need brooding, which is a job in itself.
| Type | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Hybrid layers | Lay many eggs, generally friendly, easy to find | Shorter productive life; can be prone to reproductive problems |
| Pure breeds | Hardy, often longer-lived, many looks and temperaments | Usually lay fewer eggs |
| Bantams | Small, need less space and feed | Smaller eggs; can fly more easily |
| Local/native breeds | Adapted to local climate and diseases, good foragers | Fewer eggs; quality of stock varies |
A healthy bird has bright eyes, clean nostrils, a red or pink comb (depending on breed and age), smooth feathers and a clean vent, and it moves about actively and alert. Pass on birds that sneeze or wheeze, have swollen faces, or stand hunched.
The coop and run
Space
As a rough guide, give each standard-size hen at least around 0.4 m² (about 4 sq ft) inside the coop and around 1 m² (about 10 sq ft) in the run. More is always better. Crowded birds get stressed, peck each other and pick up disease.
Coop checklist
- Perches: around 20–25 cm (8–10 in) of perch per bird, set higher than the nest boxes.
- Nest boxes: roughly one per three to four hens, dark and lined with clean straw or shavings.
- Ventilation: high vents that let ammonia and moisture escape without a draught at perch level.
- Dry floor and bedding: wood shavings, straw or similar, kept dry.
- Predator-proof: solid build, secure locks and strong welded mesh rather than thin chicken wire. Add a mesh floor or a wire skirt buried in the ground to stop diggers.
- Easy to clean: removable droppings trays or wide doors.
- Shade and shelter in the run from sun and rain.
Feeding and water
- Layer feed (pellets or mash) should be most of what laying hens eat. It is made with the right levels of protein and calcium.
- Chick starter for chicks and grower feed for young birds. Never give layer feed to chicks.
- Oyster shell or another calcium source on the side for laying hens.
- Grit (insoluble) if the birds eat whole grains or forage.
- Kitchen scraps and treats in small amounts only. Keep mouldy, salty or spoiled food, raw potato peel and avocado away from them. Rules on feeding kitchen waste to poultry differ between countries.
- Clean water at all times. Hens drink more than you would think, and more again in hot weather.
Daily and weekly routine
Daily: let the birds out, top up feed and water, collect eggs, look at each bird, and shut them in safely at dusk.
Weekly: clear out soiled bedding, clean drinkers properly, and check for mites and lice. Night is the best time to look, under perches and in crevices.
Every few months: deep clean and disinfect the coop.
Common diseases and problems
| Problem | What you may see | What usually helps |
|---|---|---|
| Red mites | Pale combs, fewer eggs, restlessness at night; tiny grey or red mites in crevices | Thorough coop cleaning; a vet can advise on approved treatments |
| Lice and northern fowl mites | Dull feathers, eggs at feather bases, itching | Check birds regularly; vet-approved treatment |
| Scaly leg mite | Raised, crusty leg scales | Vet-advised treatment; clean perches |
| Worms | Weight loss, pale comb, fewer eggs, diarrhoea | Faecal testing and a deworming plan from your vet |
| Coccidiosis | Bloody or watery droppings, hunched, fluffed-up young birds | Urgent vet care; dry, clean bedding; vaccine or medicated chick feed in some systems |
| Respiratory infections | Sneezing, rattling breathing, foamy eyes, swollen face | Isolate; vet diagnosis; improve ventilation |
| Marek's disease | Paralysis of legs or wings, weight loss, in younger birds | No cure; prevented by vaccinating chicks |
| Egg binding / egg peritonitis | Straining, penguin-like stance, swollen belly | Vet care promptly |
| Bumblefoot | Swollen foot with a dark scab | Vet treatment; smooth perches, clean bedding |
| Sour or impacted crop | Crop stays full or squishy in the morning, sour smell | Vet advice |
| Newcastle disease and avian influenza | Sudden deaths, breathing difficulty, twisted neck, swelling of the head, drop in laying | Contact a vet immediately; in many countries these must be reported |
What you treat with depends on the diagnosis. Your vet may prescribe medicines that carry egg and meat withdrawal periods, so stick to their advice and dosing.
Vaccination
The right vaccines depend on where you live and where your birds came from. Marek's disease is commonly vaccinated at hatch, and Newcastle disease vaccination is routine across much of the world. Ask your vet or the hatchery which vaccines your birds have already had and what is recommended locally.
Biosecurity basics
- Buy from reputable sources and quarantine new birds for at least a few weeks.
- Keep wild birds away from feed and water.
- Have boots just for the coop, or clean your footwear before and after.
- Wash hands after handling chickens or eggs. This goes double for children.
- Store feed in sealed, rodent-proof containers.
When to see a vet
Get veterinary help promptly if you see:
- Sudden death of one or more birds
- Breathing difficulty, gasping, rattling, or swollen face or eyes
- Twisted neck, paralysis, or a bird that cannot stand
- Bloody droppings or persistent diarrhoea
- A hen straining, standing upright like a penguin, or with a swollen belly
- A sharp drop in egg laying across the flock
- Any bird that is hunched, fluffed up and not eating
In Pakistan
Backyard poultry is everywhere in Pakistan, in towns and villages alike. Desi (native) hens, Aseel and Fayoumi-type birds and commercial layers are all easy to find. Newcastle disease, known locally as Ranikhet, is a notorious killer, so ask about vaccination when you buy and follow a local vet's schedule. Summer heat puts birds under real stress: give them deep shade, good airflow and plenty of cool water. In many districts the livestock department offices and private vets can advise on vaccines.
For more on caring for birds in general, see The Complete Guide to Keeping Pet Birds. Ready to start your flock? Browse poultry on Paalo.
Frequently asked questions
Do hens need a rooster to lay eggs?
No. Hens lay perfectly well without a rooster; the eggs just will not be fertile. You only need a rooster to hatch chicks, and many towns restrict them because of the noise, so check local rules.
How many chickens should a beginner start with?
Chickens are flock animals and should never live alone. Three or four hens is a common starting point for a family. That is enough for company and eggs, and still small enough to manage and house properly.
Can I eat eggs from a hen that is on medication?
Some medicines require a withdrawal period before eggs or meat are safe to eat. Always ask your vet and follow the label's withdrawal time before using eggs from treated birds.
